Knot Name

Link(s)

Purpose in the Rock Program (for comprehensive use of each knot refer to the program textbook or read Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual)

How it works (for understanding purposes only)

Bowline

• Climbing Knots: How to Tie a Bowline Knot (Animated Tutorial) (youtube.com)
• Bowline Knot | How to tie a Bowline Knot using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Tie around an object (rock, tree, etc.)
• Recommended for building strong anchor points using static rope

Requires one end of the rope to create a reasonably strong loop to tie around objects. Unties easily after unloaded. It is required that the working end is finished with a stopper knot below the bowline to prevent capsizing.

Water Knot

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Water Knot (youtube.com)
• Water Knot | How to tie a Water Knot using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Tie a webbing around an object (rock, tree, etc.)
• Recommended for building strong anchor points with a webbing

Requires one end of the webbing to create a loop that can be tied around objects. It can also be used as a bend to connect two separate pieces of webbing together

Barrel Knot (aka Double Overhand Stopper)

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Barrel Knot (youtube.com)
• Double Overhand Stopper | How to tie a Double Overhand Stopper using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Used as a stopper knot at the ends of the rope to close the rope systems

Overhand knot with two loops. The two loops add friction that prevents the knot from capsizing.

Rewoven Figure 8

• How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot for Climbing - Everything You Need to Know || REI (youtube.com)
• Figure 8 Follow Through Loop | How to tie a Figure 8 Follow Through Loop using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Used to tie in to the climbing rope

Figure 8 knot finished by retracing the figure 8. Strengthens under load.

Fisherman’s backup (aka stopper knot)

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Stopper Knot - YouTube
• Double Overhand Stopper | How to tie a Double Overhand Stopper using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Used to prevent working end of another knot rolling back and untying the knot
• Used to backup rewoven Figure 8 on the harness

Same as the Barrel knot but the two loops are tied around a rope strand.

Clove hitch

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Clove Hitch - YouTube
• Clove Hitch – Loops | How to tie a Clove Hitch – Loops using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Used to anchor in on a multipitch climb
• Can also be used to create an adjustable end when building SERENE anchors

Two loops create tension around an object that strengthens under load (Note: single handed clove hitch requires practice before using it on actual climbs. In the program, bunny ears clove hitch will be taught and is generally recommended.)

Munter hitch

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Munter Hitch (youtube.com)

• Emergency knot
• Used to belay/rappel if the actual belay device is lost

Load-releasable hitch. The two strands create tension around an object but allows the load to be released

Girth hitch

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Girth Hitch (youtube.com)
• Girth Hitch | How to tie a Girth Hitch using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• To tie in the sling into the harness for rappelling
• Can also be used to build anchor points

A single loop that creates tension around an object.

Figure 8 on a bight

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot on a Bight (youtube.com)
• Figure 8 Directional Loop | How to tie a Figure 8 Directional Loop using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• To create loops for master points on a SERENE anchor
• Catastrophe knot when ascending

Creates a loop without requiring ends of the rope. Strengthens under load.

Double Fisherman’s Bend

• Double Fisherman's Bend | How to tie a Double Fisherman's Bend using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• To tie off two ends of a cord or rope
• Recommended for accessory cords

Requires two ends of the rope. Two stopper knots sitting against each other. Strengthens under load. Difficult to untie after loaded

Flat Overhand Bend (aka European Death Knot aka EDK)

• How to Tie a European Death Knot (Flat Overhand Knot) (youtube.com)
• Flat Overhand Bend | How to tie a Flat Overhand Bend using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• To join two climbing ropes for rappelling
• Not recommended for accessory cords
• Recommended for cordelettes (cordelettes are not used in Rock Program)

Two ropes joined with the ends facing the same way with an overhand knot. Has a flat bottom that is less likely to get stuck on objects. Requires a significant amount of tail length to be considered safe. Can capsize if not properly tightened

Autoblock

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie an Autoblock Knot (youtube.com)

• Additional friction (aka third hand) in the extended rappel setup
• Multi-directional but is considered as weakest of all friction hitches

Cord looped around the rope to create additional friction.

Prusik

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Prusik Knot (youtube.com)
• Prusik Knot | How to tie a Prusik Knot using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Additional friction (aka third hand in the extended rappel setup)
• Multi-directional and considered strongest of all hitches

“Glorified girth hitch”. Cord girth hitched around the rope as many times as needed to create additional friction.

Klemheist

• Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Klemheist Knot (youtube.com)
• Klemheist Knot | How to tie a Klemheist Knot using Step-by-Step Animations | Animated Knots by Grog

• Progress capture while ascending
• Efficient for unidirectional pull

Autoblock + girth hitch = stronger than autoblock.

Bachmann

• The Bachmann Knot (youtube.com)

• Progress capture while ascending
• Carabiner works as an easy to use handle 
• Efficient for unidirectional pull

Autoblock + girth hitch around the rope and a carabiner.